Whenever I tell people I've lived in both Shanghai and Beijing, someone will usually ask me, "
Which city do you like better?" For some reason, the Shanghainese and the Beijingers have a pretty fierce rivalry, and it can get pretty ugly sometimes. The locals can't stand each other, and the expats will get into heated arguments over which city is better. Even worse, when I tell people which city I like, it's usually followed with, "
Oh, I can tell what type of person you are."
Quite frankly, I like both cities. As a former New Yorker, Shanghai is probably closer to home, but Beijing isn't exactly suburbia either. Some will argue that Beijing has more culture and history - after all, it does have the Great Wall, Forbidden City and China's national treasures. It is the capital of China and has been since the Ming Dynasty. But to say that Shanghai is completely devoid of culture is unfair as well. I used to love walking through the French Concession areas and wandering thru the lane houses built by the French, British and Russians and imagine what the city was like during its Lust,Caution-esque days. You can catch the subway up to the Hongkou area and wander thru slum villages and watch people bathe and do their dishes out in the open, just like the Beijing hutongs. Some will say that the Shanghainese are better looking (ok, they do dress better down there...sorry!), but the Beijingers are also a nicer bunch. And you know what? Beijingers have central heating systems while the Shanghainese (unless you're rich) rely on the little itty bitty wall units, which I absolutely hate. Yuck.
Anyway, whenever people pick on either city, I find myself getting defensive. I was at a cocktail event in Shanghai this past Thursday when an older fellow started to trash Beijing. He went on and on about everything that was wrong with the city, to the point where I got irritated and thought, "
Don't trash my city." I kept my mouth shut until a woman cut in and said, "Well, I live in Shanghai and I like Beijing better." As weird as this may sound, I instantly bonded with her.
I refuse to choose sides. I have to admit, I'm still adjusting to life in Beijing, but it certainly has its pockets of unique and cool places that are unlike any other. Like seeing the Forbidden City late at night while on the way to dinner. Or eating authentic Russian food that's only steps away from my apartment (really good borscht!). Or eating some of the best Korean food (and tonkatsu!) in the Wu. I also love going to the hutong bars and restaurants, for those are unlike any other places in the world. And you know what? I love Shanghai too. I miss going to Paul's at the Ritz, eating(notice I do a lot of eating!) at Mesa Manifesto on the rooftop terrace, eating 5 RMB niu rou la mian at the Muslim noodle shop (sometimes upgrading to the 8 RMB ji dan la mian) and many, many other places. I miss getting my nails done at Frangipani, then spending 150 RMB at all-you-can-eat Uminosachi and then visiting the bag lady Kong Li. I miss grabbing coffee at the Starbuck's at XTD, working out at Alexander, and grabbing drinks at Fountain. And of course, I miss the kids and the teachers at SHSID. When I really think and look back, I realize the one thing that has made all of these past and current experiences memorable are the people.