Saturday, February 20, 2010

Cholon - Saigon

Bui Vien Street in the morning.  Didn't realize I was staying in backpackerville! 

I woke up bright and early the next morning at 6 am.  Went downstairs to Bui Vien Street and bought myself my very first Vietnamese coffee, ca phe sua nong.  Mmmm...I grew up drinking coffee with condense milk since I was 6, so the coffee had a familiar smell and taste to it.  While most parents lectured their kids about not consuming caffeine, my family encouraged me to drink coffee, because all of them, like me, started drinking it when they were young.  If it didn't kill them, it wasn't going to kill me.  Anyway, coffee is another thing that defines our family culture, and it's the one item I'll never give up.

Bao Bao picked me up at 8 am sharp.  We hopped in a cab and finally headed towards Cholon.  I was excited, but felt nervous at the same time.  Who were these people, my so called family?  Would we get along?  Would I feel overwhelmed?  All of these questions ran through my mind as we drove past the streets and hoards of motorcycle traffic.  Bao Bao told me the streets were quieter this week because everybody was home for Tet.  Hmm...it still looked pretty busy to me!



Finally, we arrived at my Uncle's house.  We had to walk down a really dark alley and climb four flights of stairs before we arrived at the flat's entrance.  An older lady opened the gate for us - she was my Auntie, and quickly grabbed my hand when we first met.  We stepped through the door, and I saw my Uncle wobbling out.  He was skinny and frail, but you could tell he was excited to meet me as well.  As I walked down the hallway, I finally saw my Grandfather's portrait hanging in the living room area.  For some reason, it felt like his spirit was present as well.  I remember thinking to myself, "Wow, so we finally meet."

 Cousin Bao Bao, Uncle and Auntie

 
Auntie and Bao Bao on the balcony of their house

 
My Grandfather's picture and altar overlooking the living room area

To break the ice a little, I took out four photos from my bag and showed them to my new family members.  I showed them a picture of my Mom with Uncle Tran and Uncle Vincent, a photo of my Mom and I at Tiananmen Square and a couple of others.  Everybody said I look like my Mom, and we chuckled a little as we passed the photos around.  

Afterward, my Auntie and Bao Bao took me out for a tour of Cholon.  We stopped at Pho Le, known to locals as one of the best places in town to serve beef pho, or pho bo.  The place was already packed and overflowing with customers when we arrived.  My stomach growled loudly as I waited to savor my first bowl of pho bo. 



 
My first bowl of pho...YUMMMM!!!!!

 Beef ball soup.  Dip one of these into Srichacha sauce and eat your heart out!

After stuffing my face, we continued onwards with our journey...

  
572 Nguyen Trai Street.  The alley where my mom and her family used to live 

 

 572 Nguyen Trai, #23.  My mum's old house.  Everybody on her side of the family used to live here in Cholon.  The government took the house away during the revolution


An Dong Market.  My Grandmother used to shop and buy her grocieries here



Ly Phong school.  This is where my parents, aunts, uncles...basically, everybody in my family, went to this school.  Used to be called Zhi Dung School

  
The school campus.  Too bad I couldn't go inside.  My Mom remembers the stairs lead up to the library



78 An Duong Vuong.  The alley my Dad used to live on

 
Chicken hanging outside my Dad's house

  
78 An Duong Vuong, House #11.  My Dad used to live here.



My Auntie.  A very strong woman (and fast walker!)

 
Chua Nam Pho Da, the temple where my Grandfather and the rest of my ancestors' remains are



My Grandfather was a benefactor of this temple.  Hence, his name is etched all over the temple (right hand side in this picture)



My Grandfather's name was also etched onto this wall.  Can you find it?

 

My Grandfather used to own a theater, and it was located here.  Today, it's a parking garage.



My Aunt also brought me to the house my mom lived at during the earlier years



Definitely not as nice as the other house



The restaurant my Grandfather used to manage.  Today it still bears the same name, but it's now run by the government (and apparently the food sucks now). 
 Auntie and I in front of the restaurant

Finally, we were done with the family stuff.  Now for some sightseeing!

 
The Notre Dame Cathedral in Saigon



The Saigon Opera House

  
 The Post Office



Bao Bao in front of the People's Committee Hall, with Uncle Ho in the background

 
The Saigon River



Lanterns adorned the city's streets.  Too bad none of my night shots came out, but you can imagine it was really pretty at night when all of these lanterns were lit up

That was basically it for Day 1.  A very long but productive day!!!  Oh and did I mention my cousin and her family drove me around on motorbikes all week?  Here's a pic to prove it!!

 
Ling and I on her motorbike

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I am Ky ( the youngest daughter from Van Van Dai ). It is very lovely to share the memory with Emily tour in Vietnam.